Naxos to Symi

 

 

                                          More Amazing Greek Islands

 

One of the Reasons for my coming to Greece was to pay a visit to Friends who live on the Island of Simi. All I knew about Simi was that it was an Island where Wealthy Athenians used to Holiday, some building rather Grand Greco/Roman Style Villas, complete with Doric Columns and Ionian Pillars (Don't ask me which is which)!! The other thing I knew was that Simi is quite close to the Turkish Mainland.

 

An Intriguing at time perplexing things about Island Hoping is figuring out how to get from A to B. Naxos to Simi is a tricky One there are no direct Sailings, at least not in Late September. So with  help and advice from a Travel Agent and my Friends on Simi I booked a Ferry to Santorini where I would arrive Early Afternoon. I would then take the Midnight Ferry to Rhodes ( An Overnight crossing) I would spend the Day on Rhodes and catch the 5p.m. Ferry to Simi only a two Hour Voyage!!

Santorini

 

Santorini is quite Striking but a. trifle too Crowded and Fashionable for my taste. I had a pleasant few Hours exploring the Town and eating. There appeared to be lots of Classy Restaurants but I contented myself with some Great Shish Kebab!! Catching the 11p.m. Bus to descend the very Steep Hill and negotiate the succession of  Spectacular Hair Pin Bends which eventually deliver One at the Harbour.

 

 

I spent next Day in the Old Town of Rhodes, for a while watching the Young Guys whose Job entails Charming Tourists into their particular Café!! I watched in fascination as they appeared to recognise approaching Prospects Nationality from afar  greeting them in the appropriate European Language including Russian, Japanese and Korean were also in their Arsenal. These young Patter Merchants had a pretty good success rate and there was lots of friendly Banter and  Rivalry between the Greeters from Adjacent Bars and Restaurants!!

 

Regarding the above I later had it explained by a Hotel Owner that many of the Hotels on Rhodes have adopted the " All Inclusive Package Holiday" This of course means that as Guests are receiving everything including Drinks in their all in Price there is then no incentive for them to ever Leave the Hotel. This is the Reason why Bar and Café Owners are literally Fighting for every Customer!! The Guy who told me this Suggested Scathingly that the only way some of these Tourists would actually become aware that they were in Greece is if the Hotel Held a "Greek Evening"!!

Old Town Rhodes

 

Personally I would rather stay at home than Book an all Inclusive Holiday. Half the Fun and Adventure of Foreign Travel are the unexpected things which occur in New Places. For example I enjoyed one of the best Salad Nicoise  I have ever eaten sitting at a Pavement table outside a small Restaurant while watching for my Ferry to Arrive in the Harbour of Rhodes. Had I been on an all inclusive package I would not have found this Restaurant. So it was that replete with Salad Nicoise and Chilled white Wine I boarded the Ferry for Simi!!

As the Boat approached Simi Harbour I found myself caught up in the atmosphere of Mild Hysteria present whenever a Ferry Docks in Greece. The Crowds of Greeters on the Quay at the Back craning their necks to get a first view of Friends and Family while those waiting to Board press forward!! Meanwhile on the Car Deck the Passengers Gently Jostle each other to get into Pole Position ready to Charge down the huge Hydraulic Ramps which descend with agonising Slowness!! I had spotted Andy from an upper Deck so had a general Idea which direction to take.

Simi Harbour and Town

Pat and Andy live in a Charming Small Apartment where One can lounge on the Terrace taking in spectacular Ocean and Mountain Views. The best thing about this little piece of Paradise being that it is only a Five Minutes Ride from Simi Town. It was Great catching up with my Friends and we calculated that we had not met for around 8 or 9 Years as they moved to Greece around 9 Years ago and I have lived in Thailand for almost 6 Years!!




All this delicious Food was prepared
on the way here in the Boats Tiny Galley

I did not see all that much of Simi apart from the Town, which is absolutely Charming and not terribly Touristy. I walked to the Beach which is frequented by my Friends, and enjoyed a Fabulous day on a Boat which is owned and Skippered by a Friend of Andy's named Yani. 

I had a terrific time meeting and eating and drinking With my Hosts Friends, a Charming Bunch of Fun People . Andy who is a Bon Viveur is of course known to all the Taverna Owners who give a big Welcome to the various people he introduces to their Restaurants! Possibly as a "Thank you" for Andy's Patronage and in recognition of the business he brings Mysterious free bottles of wine arrive at the table during the course  of Dinner!!



The Day out with my Friends on the Poseidon (Yannis Boat) was one of the High spots of my Greek Oddesy!! After stopping in a Pretty Bay for a Swim Lunch time saw our arrival on this Beautiful Island, with its uninhabited but Pristine Monastery.

Perfect Spot for a Picnic



I can almost smell that Chicken Barbequing 

All the Food for Lunch was prepared in the Poseidon's tiny Galley. Yanni and his sole Crew member working like Trojans while Andy was entrusted with Skippering the Boat. Some off the Passengers whiling away the Voyage drinking Pimms which they had mixed in a couple of large plastic Buckets!!

Once on the Island people Swam and visited the Monastery, or just lazed as the fancy took them. Lunch as you might gather from my Photographs was a rather impressive affair, delicious Food washed down with Lashings of Wine!! All in all a most perfect Day!

Picture from the Monestery

As is always the case when One is having a really great time my 4 Nights on Simi flew past. All too soon I was heading back down to the Harbour with Andy who was seeing me off on the next stage of my Greek Adventure!!

Simi Harbour

 

 

 



A Ferry to Greece

                                      Ancona to Patras

In the third Week of September Last I made the 24 Hour Ferry crossing from Ancona in Italy to Patras in Mainland Greece. This is the same Route where on December 28 an Italian Ferry was engulfed by Fire and 10 Passengers Tragically Perished. Today's Ferries are fairly Luxurious with Bars, Casinos and a choice of Restaurants. One is essentially in a floating Town and  thoughts of the Panic and Fear which would arise in the event of Fire are the last thing One is apt to think on.

I believe that Passengers sailing on the Stricken Vessel were expecting to Sail on a Ferry similar to the one I travelled on. For some reason the designated Ferry was not available and People embarked on a Boat which was something of a Rust Bucket. I am sure that the replacement Ferry was considered Seaworthy, however a Fire which started on a Car Deck could not be contained and fairly quickly engulfed the whole Ship!!


Passengers endured 24 Hours on a Freezing Sleet
Lashed Deck Choking on Toxic Black Smoke!!

Unlike the Poor Souls spoken of above my Crossing was uneventful. My Eurail Pass had given me Free Ferry Crossings on this Route Plus a Bed in a Couchette ( A tiny Cabin with 6 Bunks, where One is packed in like a Sardine in a Can, but infinitely preferable to sitting in a Chair all Night!!) In fact my return Ferry Crossings to Italy plus the 30% Discount I received on all my Ferry Journeys to the Greek Islands is what made the Eurail Pass worth the Money!! Had I just used my Pass for the Train Journeys I made the cost (Almost 600 Euros) would have rendered the Pass a Poor investment!!

One final thought as regards Traveling on Greek Ferries if making an overnight Voyage and paying full cost for a Cabin ( Cabins are rather expensive) the price is usually exactly the same as flying. It is really then a matter of personal Preference. What occurs to me is that because of the time of Year my Ferries were all a lot less than half full, in the Summer Months those Boats must get pretty crowded!!

A four hour Bus Journey to Athens and an Overnight stay in the Hotel Adonis in Piraeus later I Sailed on the Early Morning Ferry Bound for the Delightful Island of Naxos. I first visited Naxos some 25 Years ago, and had retained fond Memories of the Delightful Old Town and its Wonderful Narrow Steep Alleys and Steps which are a Joy to explore. I remembered Bougainvillaea Festooned Houses which Nestle side by side with Inviting Restaurants and small Colourful Shops. As One Saunters through this intruiging  Maze One gets the feeling that One is actually walking through Somebody's House!!

There are a Lot more Restaurants, Shops etc. on Naxos than when I last

The Old Town is Just as Captivating
as My Memory of it!!

Visited, although the Islands essential Charm and Romance remain intact. I was told that late September is an ideal time to visit as nowadays Naxos is rather Busy earlier in the Summer. I believe Naxos is a Beautiful Island with some fine Beaches. I have to confess that I only visited one of the Outlying Beaches and that was 25 Odd Years ago, and as I recall involved a rather Sweaty Bus Journey!! Being rather a Lazy Tourist I used the Town Beach which was perfectly OK for Sleeping in the Sun and Swimming!!


While I preferred to spend my Evenings Eating and Drinking in the Labyrinthine Street's of the Old Town there are lots of interesting looking Restaurants and Bars facing the pretty little Harbour.





Greek Cuisine while in no way comparable to French or Italian is rather Good, I think ''Hearty'' describes it quite well!! As mentioned there is a large choice of inviting looking Restaurants and Bars on Naxos. What I missed were the little Morsels, rather like Mini Tapas ( small pieces of Octopus and Grilled Prawns etc.) Which my then Girl-Friend and I enjoyed in a Taverna overlooking the Harbour of Skiathos 40 Odd Years ago. As One sat quaffing an Ouzo or a Beer these little offerings were I suppose intended as an inducement to stay for another drink!! Although I did not see any Tavernas Serving up these delicious Tit Bits I am Sure that there are still Bars on some Islands where the Tradition Survives.

Octopus Drying in the Sun

Dining here on warm Greek Evening
Pure Bliss!!

This was my favourite Restaurant. Diners in this picture are actually sitting outside in a delightful little Alley. I noticed a number of Greek Families eating here quite late in the Evening on my several visits which I took as a good sign!! Taramasalata was not on the Menu but they got me some from where I know not. Fresh Home Made Taramasalata with a Plate of Good Olives and Crusty White Bread washed down with Chilled White Wine is my idea of Heaven!!

I dream about Taramasalata in Thailand

With no space for Gardens
Still Flowers and Plants are Everywhere

Gems of The Italian Adriatic Coast

Gradara and Urbino

Beautiful Medieval Buildings

Looking up at The Castle

 Gradara Consists of a Tiny Walled Medieval Town built around an Imposing Castle. This was my first

Port of Call in Italy. Around 5 Kilometers from the Adriatic Sea it is Close to the rather Naff resort of Rimini (Similar to Blackpool in England!!) The first Train I took in Italy after my Overnight Journey by French Sleeper Train Promptly Broke Down!! This delay caused my Train Schedules to become useless.The result being that I arrived in Catholica (The nearest Rail Stop) too Late to catch the Bus and was duly Ripped Off by a Local Taxi Driver who seemed to blame me as he could not find the Villa where I was Staying.

Gradara looking toward the Town Gate at Twilight

While planning my "Autumn Adventure" I found Gradara Online and thought it would be a Great Place to spend a few Days, I pictured myself cycling around the Pastoral Italian Countryside.I did hire a Bicycle for a Couple of Days The Countryside however is extremely Hilly the result that I spent more time pushing the Bike than Riding it!! One Day I cycled to Rimini as the Road going there was flatter than all the roads in other directions. I knew Rimini by reputation only and it certainly lived down to my expectations, no quaint winding Streets and Renaissance Architecture here!!

I stayed four Nights in the B&B Al Castello a perfectly adequate Room with Private Bath in a Villa Close to the Castle. I was the only Guest staying here and I was given a Voucher for Breakfast in an attractive Cafe/Restaurant just inside the Town Walls.At 50Euros a Night All Castello was far too expensive and in no way worth the Money. Gradara being so Tiny a Morning or Afternoon spent here  would give One sufficient time to see all that was worth seeing.

The Best thing about my stay in Gradara were the few Hours I managed to spend in the Truly Beautiful Medieval Town of Urbino.About Three and a Half Hours on Two Buses Urbino is where I SHOULD have Spent my Four Nights, it is Magnificent. Urbino is not Large and it's narrow Steep Medieval Streets are a Joy to Explore. There is so much to see here and as my stay was to be all to short I contented myself with a Casual exploration of the Town and a delicious Lunch at I think it was called Ristorante Da Franco on  Via Del Poggio(Just up the Hill from the Ducal Palace) Great Traditional No Frills Italian Food and Wine, Perfect.

Urbino Portraits

Set Atop a Hill and Surrounded by Beautiful Countryside Urbino is a Place I would love to Revisit

There are 30,000 University Students in Urbino which ensures it is a

 Vibrant Lively Town

Reflections on a Wonderful Holiday

My almost two Months of Traveling  has come to an End.I flew out Of Paris Charles De Gaul  Airport Last Tuesday Evening.Determined to have a final Splurge to Cheer Myself up I plonked myself down at the Caviar Bar and ordered Gravadlax Half a Bottle of Good White Wine, and as I have never tried it before a Spoonful of Caviar which was priced

My Last Taste of Paris

at a modest!! 10 Euros, a proper serving of the best Caviar would cost the equivalent of two Nights in the Paris Hotel where I had been staying!! I was quite unable to tell from the miniscule serving of Caviar whether I actually Liked it which is probably just as well as I could not afford to have it as an even occasional item on my Menu!!

Prior to my departure the preceding Seven Weeks had been spent traveling in France Greece and Italy. I spent most time in Greece as it is by far the least expensive of the three and because It's Island's offer a fresh Adventure every Day. I spent a lot of time on Boats (Obviously) I made four overnight crossing two in a Couchette ( a Cabin for 6 where the space above each bunk measure approximately 14 inches and I spent two night sleeping on the floor( Or should that be Deck on a boat!!) in a sleeping bag.

At the start of my Trip I flew into Paris on September 10 and stayed 3 Nights at "Le Petit Trianon on the corner of Rue de L'Ancienne Comedie and Rue de Buci. One could not be any more in the Very Heart of St.Germain de Pres than right here.The Cafes,Bars and an amazing collection of superb food Shops are absolutely  Spellbinding to behold .I suppose that Rooms here at slightly under a 100 Euros a night are OK for this part of Paris. I have never come to terms with paying this kind of Money for a Room (well I am Scottish!!) add to this that I can remember finding the occasional room in this district for 10 Francs (Not Euros) all this of course was a very long time ago!!

One of the Myriad Streets in St. Germain which are a joy to explore!!

TOP TIP. Hotel Stella Rue Monsieur Le Prince. This Charmingly Ancient , Creaky old

Hostelry is only 100 Metres from Boulevard St. Germain in one direction and the same

distance from the Jardins de Luxembourg in the other!! Admittedly the Rooms are 

rather Shabby, but the Sheets are Clean and the Shower is Hot!! And you are never

going to find anywhere else for 65 Euros a Night in this district.I spent my last six Days 

in Europe here I went up to the Jardin de Luxombourg for my early Morning Jog 

(Actually more like quick Walking!!) with all the other Parisian Keep Fit Fanatics!!

I checked the prices on the Best Western Hotel just round the corner, I stayed 6 

Nights in Hotel Stella for around 80 Euros less than it would have cost me to stay 

in the rather ordinary Best Western for 2 Nights!! (My Scottish Blood!!)

Hotel Stella Rue Monsieur Le Prince

 

 

 

 

 

Saying Goodbye to an Old Acquaintance !!

 

My Room at Hotel Stella

Paris no Name Conjures more evocotive Images

Add caption

If You Happen to be in the Luxembourg Gardens toward the end of Next Week you will find me taking my Morning Exercise

 At some point you will find me drinking a demi at the Cafe Flore or the Deux Magots

Eating a Steak Fritte and Quaffing a glass Of Red Somewhere like this 

 

And Strolling on the Quay

 

Only a Loony would not Visit the Cotswolds

                        

Looking down the High Street Burford

The overwhelming number of Foreign Visitors to England never make it out of London. This is a fact and it is also very sad. The UK is much more than London. Take the Cotswold's for example only an Hour from London exist some of the finest Medieval  small Towns and Villages in the World. The name Cotswold is the joining of two Old English words Wold meaning Gentle Hills and Cots which are Sheep enclosures. The beautiful  Buildings in these Medieval Villages are so impressive and well preserved because the People who built them had become wealthy thanks to the Wool Trade. One could take a train from London to Oxford spending a Day looking at the Superb Oxford Colleges in this most English of Towns  then rent a Car to tour the many beautiful Cotswold Villages!!

The Lamb Inn Sheep Street Burford

The Lamb has been my Favourite small Hotel/Inn since I first stayed there 20 Years Ago

The Snug Lounge at the Lamb Inn

 

Autumn is a great time to stay at the Lamb, afternoon tea taken in front of a gently crackling Log fire must be like being in the waiting room before entering Heaven!! Undulating Stone Floors and Woodwork gleaming with the Patina of age, make the Lamb an utterly enchantingly comfortable place to be!! An elegant Dining Room serving excellent Food and Wine after having had a Pint of  the Local Ale in the friendly Bar and then of to bed in a Four Poster!! Unfortunately the Lamb is not cheap but it is an unforgettable experience and something you owe to yourself!!

There are Countless Beautiful Villages Like This One. A Day Spent driving around the Beautiful Cotwold Hills will take you back in time to the England of Yesteryear!! Enjoy

 

Enjoy Your Travels in Europe Before Vladimir Putin Annexes us!!

 

OK hands up the Headline is a bit of an attention getter. However the Actions of Vladimir Putin bear a frightening resemblance to the way Adolf Hitler sensing a lack of resolve on the part of Western Governments Annexed Czechoslovakia. He then brought about the Second World War by his gamble that the Western Powers would let him get away with invading poor Poland!!

Prague

I am reminded by the above of a wonderful adventure I had a long time ago. At the age of 19 or 20 I was living in Paris and got hold of a Visa to visit Czechoslovakia. This really was a long time ago in fact it was a few Years before the Prague Spring and the poor Old Czech's were still under the thumb of the Soviet Union.It was terribly exciting observing a Convoy of Russian Troops approaching along the Road I was traveling on. In those Days of course the "Cold War" raged and Russia was seen as being a very real threat to the peace of the World, in fact just as it is again becoming!!

The Czech's were amazingly friendly to all visitors from the West (In those Days we were a real Novelty) I was taken home by a young Girl (Not what your thinking!! I was invited to stay with Her Family!!) Black Market Touts would sidle up to One in the Street offering twice the Official rate of exchange for all Western Currencies!! With this amazing exchange rate a Litre of wonderful Czech Pilsner Beer cost sixpence (before Decimalization there were 240 Pennies in a British Pound, so for the ludicrous sum of Six pennies one could quaff the best Lager in the World until it was coming out of One's Ears Happy Days!!

A Pristine Piece of Mittle Europa